48 Hours in Belfast
Norah Casey explores Belfast, rising triumphantly from the darkest of pasts, sprouting up cool hotels, with new hipster bars, a bright shiny restaurant scene and some incredible street art.
The son of Protagoras Belfast
Belfast is the real deal. There is no hiding its violent and turbulent past, the walls tell their own story in the segregated communities of the Falls Road and Shankill. I wrote my own message on the Peace Wall after witnessing first-hand the gable-end tributes to martyrs and heroes proclaimed by both sides. From walls that spoke of violence, hard lines and harsh messages I was walking along the Peace Wall with messages of hope and reconciliation from the Dalai Lama to Bill Clinton. I wrote: ‘Love and Peace Always’.
What else could you wish for a community that has been through so much conflict.
But new art is flourishing on the city walls and the musical creativity born out of the Troubles is evolving in the city’s pubs and clubs. There’s an energy about Belfast and a rawness that while rooted in its past is more about the future. Investment and economic progress has changed the city with former no-go areas transformed into go-to areas.
Victoria Square, the Cultural, Cathedral and Titanic Quarters and the Laganside with the new Odyssey complex, and the Waterfront Hall are alive with buzzy bars, great foody haunts, art galleries, modern museums, food markets and great boutique shopping (especially on the Lisburn Road).
The Titanic Museum which opened in 2012 continues to act as a magnet for tourism and it is constantly evolving with a new £28 million Titanic Hotel opening a few years ago. The Giant’s Causeway continues to be the top tourist draw and there are plans for another big attraction – potentially a museum of the city. Tourism, property prices and employment are soaring – this is a city on the move with 2.26 million room nights sold annually.
No wonder The Guardian voted it their favourite UK city. There are lots of great things about Belfast way beyond the political issues that often dominate the headlines.
The iconic yellow Samson and Goliath shipyard cranes finished in the early 70’s stand guard over the Lagan, built at the start of the Troubles when bombings, assassinations and violent street scenes became part of Belfast life.
Rioting, confrontation, intimidation, curfews, fortified army barracks, security checks and searches were part and parcel of working and living in the city. The economy was collapsing and unemployment was rising. By the early 1990s the cycle of violence was escalating which sparked a renewed eff ort to find peace. The ceasefires of 1994 eventually led to the God Friday Agreement in 1998.
Strolling around the Cathedral Quarter it is hard to imagine those times but the memories add a depth to Belfast and a wonderment at the resilience of the city’s inhabitants who for the most part just want to live life like everyone else, but more so because that normality was hard fought.
If you’re bored with Brexit (and who isn’t) then maybe spare a thought for the people of Belfast who more than anything else don’t want to go back to those bad old days. And furthermore, this little gem on the Island of Ireland is right on our doorstep.
WHAT WE DID IN 48 HOURS
Day One
Afternoon tea on the Titanic One of the highlights of our weekend in Belfast was afternoon tea at the Titanic Suite, an exquisite replica of the grand dining room from the famous liner. We sipped champagne, nibbled sandwiches and beautiful sweet treats with a vista of the sweeping staircase where you imagine a beautiful young couple might descend. ere were some lovely touches to this experience, the china all replicas from the Titanic, the silverwear, glasses and lamps and the old fashioned quartet playing in the background. The staff were not only welcoming and attentive but they looked the part also. It was a wonderful little escape for an hour or so and not hard to imagine the scene on board the Titanic when the dining room was packed with elegant ladies and gentlemen.
The Titanic experience is spectacular and very different to other exhibitions if you are one of the few people who hasn’t been. There are special effects, immersive experiential rides, full-scale reconstructions and interactive features across the nine galleries. The exhibition takes you from the Construction of the Titanic in the early 1900s through to her launch and maiden voyage. The most poignant elements are of course the devastation and aftermath of her sinking, including the discovery of the wreck. titanicbelfast.com
St. George’s Market
St. George’s Market is open on Friday, Saturday and Sunday. is 19th-century building is packed with local Belfast produce including seafood, fruit, vegetables, and a chance to sample local cooking and great Belfast staples like crusty Belfast baps, wheaten farls, soda and griddle breads.
On Saturday and Sunday the market also has great crafts and antiques. St George’s Market, Donegall Quay, Belfast
Evening Drink
White’s Tavern: We went for a stroll through the Belfast Entries which are a series of narrow cobblestone alleyways built when Belfast first began, between Ann Street and High Street. is feels like the very heart of old Belfast with quirky Victorian taverns.
We stopped in one of the oldest, White’s Tavern, which dates back to 1630 with the antiques to prove it. Great spot with open fires and oak beams. 2- 4 Winecellar Entry, Belfast
Day two
Crumlin Road Gaol
Connected by a bleak tunnel to the Crumlin Road Courthouse (soon to be a luxury hotel) the Crumlin Road Gaol has witnessed some of the worst of the Troubles with the incarceration and segregation of political prisoners including Ian Paisley and Gerry Adams. Closed as a working prison in 1996 it has a grim past that stretches further back to when 17 men were hanged in the execution chamber. For all that it is well worth a visit, not for the faint hearted but an important reminder of our living history.
Street Art
Belfast is one of the street art capitals of the world. The walls speak of violence, peace and now regeneration. Born out of the Troubles and a divided community the walls of Belfast’s Shankill and Falls Road are scarred by the conflict and emblazoned with murals commemorating their heroes, martyrs and the historical moments that defined the decades of violence. And they’re still there less anyone should forget those turbulent years when so many families were left devastated by death and destruction. The segregation and “Peace Walls” remain but the violence has abated. But born out of those dark times is a new form of street art where the next generation are painting the walls with vibrant images and scenes creating surreal urban art in former troubled areas.
A quick stop
The Sunflower: An iconic security cage surrounds the doorway, a relic from the Troubles, at this hipster music venue and pub with an eclectic mix of folk gigs, jam sessions, craft beers, pizzas and monthly flea market.
The Black Box: We dropped in as we wanted to see the amazing mural at the gable end but didn’t linger (have promised to be back). The Black Box is a buzzy hangout for music and culture with craft beers, cabaret, film, theatre and art events. 18-22 Hill Street, visit blackboxbelfast.com
Lunch Day 2
Café Parisien: Possibly the best view in Belfast overlooking City Hall, we enjoyed a lovely lingering lunch at this Titanic inspired French bistro on Donegall Square North. Great traditional dishes of Moules Frites and Bouillabaisse served in a charming restaurant with a great balcony overlooking one of the finest buildings in the city. cafeparisienbelfast.com
Shopping the Lisburn Road
Emporio just off the Lisburn Road has been serving the women of Belfast for over 30 years and stocks a range of designer labels Armani to Caterina Lucchi . 2–6 Lislea Ave, Belfast
Envoy of Belfast is a vintage and designer combo with labels such as Acne Studios . 4
Wellington Street Belfast Peel Fashion is a larger affordable fashion and accessory boutique with a sister store, Peel 2, which sells discounted end-of-line clothes. 107 Bloomfi eld Avenue, Belfast
Liberty Blue specialises in vintage clothing and high street style at reasonable prices. 19-21 Lombard St, Belfast
Déjà Vu has high end labels (Gucci) and more classic collections from designers like Karen Millen. It also stocks high end shoes from the likes of Prada and Louboutin and Louis Vuitton handbags. 453 Lisburn Rd, Belfast
Cubana has interesting catwalk inspired collections and a personal shopper, distinctive styles and occasion wear. 637 Lisburn Rd, Belfast
Please Don’t Tell has a strong reputation for design and style beyond Belfast and stocks an ‘edit’ of international designers online and instore. 675 Lisburn Rd, Belfast, visit pleasedonttell.ie
Evening Drink
The Crown Liquor Saloon is famed for being the most bombed bar in Belfast and was restored to its former Victorian glory and extravagance in 2007. is former Victorian Gin Palace is now owned by the National Trust, and is well worth a visit. The gas-lit interior has beautiful intricate mosaic tiling, stained glass and carved mahogany snugs, we even rang the antique bells for service (nobody came… but still). 46 Great Victoria St. Belfast
Dinner
The Meat Locker: I’m a big fan of Michael Deane from the first time we presented him with the overall Chef of the Year at the FOOD&WINE Awards through to the many incarnations and evolutions of his food and restaurants. He is the king of Belfast’s food scene and a culinary entrepreneur.
And it had been way too long since I had visited his food hub on Howards Street, home to his Michelin Star Epic and two sister restaurants, Love Fish and The Meat Locker. Back when I last visited Michael himself was in the kitchen serving the guests of Restaurant Michael Deane while downstairs was Deanes Brasserie. The new layout was unrecognisable with décor and ambiance in each space creating different moods from casual Love Fish with dark and blonde woods, black board and simple settings to the sophisticated grey walls, suited waiters and pristine white linens in Epic. I knew Dara would love to try the much acclaimed prime steaks, sourced from the godfather of aged beef, Peter Hannan who ages the meat in chambers lined with Himalayan pink salt bricks. Distinctive also by dramatic red walls and white table cloths, the oversized cow diagram above the open kitchen makes no bones about what the main item on the menu is! The Meat Locker features an Asador Grill for perfect steaks and the menu also includes my favourite, lobster thermidor, whole roast chicken (for sharing) and a Table d'Hote menu.
But we went a la carte and chose the full flavoured and perfectly cooked Hannan Steaks served with beef dripping chips and béarnaise, it was worth every calorie. A big hit with the son and highly recommended for committed carnivores (or occasional ones like me). michaeldeane.co.uk
Lunch Day 3 (on the drive back to Dublin)
The Parson's Nose
Hillsborough is a charming village featuring some incredibly preserved Georgian architecture, not least the Queen’s official residence in the north, Hillsborough Castle, set in 100 acres of beautiful gardens, woodland and waterways. But there is another reason to visit and that’s to eat at The Parson’s Nose, a cosy pub restaurant which is building a loyal following thanks to the talents of chef Danny Millar (of Balloo House). Dara and I headed there on our way back to Dublin and it was like stepping back in time. Hygge on Irish turf with a roaring fire in the front room, quirky art and a winter warming menu of pies, game, fish, homemade soups (and fantastic woodfired pizzas). And by the way every table was taken so book ahead. ballooinns.com
Highlight: Black Cab Tour Day 2 (two hours)
The best way to see, hear and feel Belfast is on a black cab tour and the best person to show you around is Belfast’s most famous cabbie, Billy Scott. Not only will you laugh a lot but you will learn a great deal in a couple of hours when Billy unleashes his encyclopaedic knowledge at breakneck speed of Belfast’s famous inventors, historical landmarks, pubs, clubs and restaurants and on to an open air tour of the , political murals of the Falls and Shankill through to the vibrant street art of the Cathedral District. And did I mention he is funny. Billy could have his own stand up show. He’s fast, full of gags, veers into anecdotes, asides and nuggets while enthusiastically showing off his city.
And he makes it feel like it is the first time he’s delivering this performance when in reality he must have done it thousands of times. You will love it. Billy delivers the political dimensions of the tour with knowledge and balance. You’ll find Billy Scott and his tours at touringaroundbelfast.com.
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