Exploring Ngorongoro Crater
Norah Casey visits the spectacular Ngorongoro Crater in Tanzania, the world's largest intact volcanic caldera and a haven to an abundance of wildlife.
Elephants in the Ngorongoro Crater
For more than a decade I have gazed longingly at images of the planet’s greatest marvels – the incredible Ngorongoro Crater in Tanzania. It was a long held ambition to see it first-hand. And here we were driving through the Maasai villages in the southern Serengeti heading straight for this unique mystical place. Ngorongoro is a UNESCO World Heritage site and the most spectacular caldera on the planet.
About 2.5 million years ago gigantic volcano, to rival if not beat the height of Mount Kilimanjaro, rose up from the Rift valley before collapsing to form this massive hollow bowl 2000 feet deep and 260 square kilometres wide. It now boasts the greatest game density in Africa.
FIRST GLIMPSE
We spent many days in the company of a great and knowledgeable driver and guide, Isaya, from Amani Afrika (amaniafrika.com). He picked us up when we landed at Seronera Airstrip in the heart of the Serengeti and remained with us on the long drive south towards the migration and then on to the Ngorongoro Crater. Before long we began to climb quite steeply up from the plains of the Serengeti and the Maasai heartland. The higher we climbed the more lush the vegetation, tall evergreens and verdant forests cover the slopes in stark contrast to the scrubland and savannahs of the Serengeti. Isaya pulled over so we could get our first glimpse of the ancient Crater.
That day an ethereal mist hung above the cavernous basin with hues of blues and greens shimmering through – it was otherworldly. Over the course of the next two days we captured the ever changing colours and light of the Ngorongoro Crater at dawn and sunset, with clear blue skies and more often than not through the hazy lens of the mist that envelopes the high altitudes along the rim. It is quite beautiful and captivating.
ABUNDANT WILDLIFE
We set out in the early hours of the morning to drive down into the Crater for an amazing safari drive. The floor of the Ngorongoro is mainly grassland, dotted with some pools, marshes and a large soda lake. It is home to some20,000 mammals including the rare black rhino which we finally managed to see up close. Because of the high density of animals we witnessed all of the big five within a couple of hours of arriving onto the Crater floor.
Incredibly, and because of the density, we witnessed a bold spotted hyena venture into a herd of zebras, and a pride of lions with a couple of energetic baby cubs chasing each other through the grass right next to the land rover. We stopped by a lakeside for breakfast with a lone hippo submerged just feet away and some cheeky black kites hopping close by ready to steal any scraps of food. On the drive back we saw elephant, buffalo, jackal, warthog, gazelles, antelope and a couple of black and white Abdim Storks foraging in the marshes.
MAASAI MEETS VERSAILLES
That first day we were heading to one of the most unique and luxurious lodges with stunning views of the Crater. The Ngorongoro Crater Lodge is set amidst the rich green highland forests on the crater rim, at first glimpse it wouldn’t be out of place in the Hobbit Shire of Tolkien’s Lord of the Rings.
On the outside the Lodge blends seamlessly with the lush landscape. The stilted individual handcrafted banana thatched suites take their inspiration from the Maasai Kraals reached through wooden steps and raised walkways.
Inside is a whole different story. Think Versailles overlaid with traditional African and Indian influences. It was quite extraordinary to enter the heavy wooden door to the suite and be greeted by such opulence – rich Taj Mahal red velvet furnishings, a majestic chandelier, complete with
PVC baubles, suspended from the centre point of the pitched roof, ornate mirrors, antique bathtub and in one cosy corner – plump armchairs arranged in front of an old stove fireplace with a decanter of sherry and two crystal glasses adorning a silver tray. I marvelled at what kind of genius designer came up with such a combination – gilded chic drawing rooms camouflaged in raw and rustic huts. Small cameo windows offered tantalising glimpses of the Crater while the wooden deck outside offered dazzling views. The main dining areas are similarly and even more spectacularly adorned.
PERSONAL TOUCH
There were some wonderful touches at Crater Lodge. When we returned from a long game drive a hot bath was waiting in my room adorned with rose petals.
Each evening we returned from dinner to a warm fire to ward off the chill of the night. One evening the staff choir sang and the Maasai warriors danced for us as the sun sank low over the ancient crater beyond – these were special unforgettable experiences. The beautiful dining room was matched by beautifully prepared and presented food. Harissa grilled prawns,
Maasai honey and saffron roasted chicken, lemon and fennel marinated Tilapia and Kilimanjaro coffee panna cotta were among our favourites. The Lodge also organises bush lunches and banquets in the Crater, rose petal carpet dinners (especially for honeymooners) and packed breakfasts for early starts.
ECO-TOURISM
The Lodge is part of a great company called &Beyond which has a reputation for luxurious lodges combined with a strong conservation ethos, supporting local communities through low-impact tourism. I have been a fan for years since it began life as Conservation Corporation Africa (CC Africa) in the early 90s and Richard and I had the pleasure of visiting one of their early lodges in South Africa and seeing first-hand the great work it was doing with the local community. &Beyond solidified its conservation work into the Africa Foundation which funds projects to help schools, health care and the environment – particularly through its work with the preservation of leopards in South Africa and the Rhinos without Borders initiative – the first to translocate white Rhino to Botswana. The international investment community liked the ecotourism model too and backed the company to considerable expansion - now boasting 29 high-end lodges and camps in Africa. In my experience you will never be disappointed with an &Beyond lodge or camp - it’s a great company, with a great ethic and the Crater Lodge is no exception.
The Ngorongora Crater is an incredible place – a once in a lifetime trip quite possibly but I hope someday to return to its many splendours. Get there if you can, you will love it.
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